If Quito Colonial (colonial Quito) in Ecuador hadn't received the honors as first discovery of UNESCO as a world heritage site, I wouldn't understand why not.

It's the largest old town in the Americas, and the greatest. Of course, I'm partial.

This amazing historic center - on the Avenue of Volcanoes on the Andes - vibrates with the joy of these remarkable, gentle people.

How do I know? I've been:

• invited to eat in Quiteno homes,
• talking with them,
• laughing with them,
• praying with them,
• celebrating with them,
• touring with them, and
• shopping with them!

Quitenos love celebrations! Throughout the year, fiestas pulsate rhythmically.

The whole colonial center blocks itself to vehicles on Sundays, and pedestrians rule. Just watch out for the bikes whisking through! Church bells echo invitingly throughout the historic center every morning beckoning the faithful to Mass.

The Presidential Palace sprawls on the famous Calle de Las Siete Cruces. President Gabriel Garcia Moreno himself named this street. Later, the name of Garcia Moreno Street took over in honor of the martyred president. Now, the name reigns.

In 1873 a bishop and Garcia Moreno consecrated Ecuador to the Sacred Heart of Jesus in the Cathedral. The president created a following as a peacemaker through his deeply religious convictions and subsequent results in the name of peace.

A year later, a succession of bullets stopped him because of his unwavering faith... assassinating him upon leaving the Cathedral after adoring the Lord for several hours - just steps away from the door to the Presidental Palace...WOW!

Blue letters on a plaque on the wall of the palace mark in Spanish where it happened...where the assassinated president fell to the sidewalk below.

His statue stands erect at Garcia Moreno Plaza in front of the grand Basilica - the temple built at his request during his tenure in office as President of Ecuador as a monument to the awesome consecration.

His famous last words, "Dios no muere," which translate, "God doesn't die," will forever remain etched in the minds of the people.

Do you love ancient churches as much as I do? Then, start on this street after you have toured the Basilica del Voto Nacional (Basilica of the National Vote)...it sure gets my vote!

The seven crosses marked in progression where the conquistadors planned to erect seven churches.

Six of the magnificent gold-leafed vibrant churches continue their mission. The seventh emerged into Hospicio San Lazaro (St. Lazarus Hospice) since 1767 when the Jesuits reluctantly left it behind, expelled by enemies of the Catholic Church.

Run down by age, neglect, and disrepair, it seems under construction for remodeling as a psychiatric hospital and clinic - according to the signs on it. It barely stands in the "red zone" - meaning unsafe.

Restored ancient churches permeate the downtown area and can be strolled free mornings - as long as you don't disturb the worshippers. Hold it on the photos during Mass - you could get thrown out. Some can be toured for a fee throughout the day.

- Sidebar - Some churches, such as the cathedral, now forbid photos inside the church - Sidebar -

The only exception to the tours comes with the closing of particular churches for about a year for renovations - depending on when renovations become inevitable and available. More majestic churches unashamedly wait to be appreciated throughout the city and all of Ecuador.

- Sidebar - Free tourist information and maps float around the colonial center, one of them at a Spanish school across from Carmen Bajo Church. - Sidebar -

A relaxing way to just kick back, explore and discover colonial Quito exhibits itself in a ride on the horse-driven buggy. It parks close to the Plaza Grande downtown Garcia Moreno Street. For under $5, a person can really savor the Ecuadorian flavor! (For more about the delicious flavors, see "Eating In Historic Cntr" and "Eating With a View".)

I finally got to kick back and admire colonial Quito in the quaint carriage! The driver explained points of interest along with myths surrounding them. The intermittent drops of rain didn't bother me one bit. Getting carried away by horse and buggy beats all other tours in my book, even if only for a short trip and back.